Monday, 5 May 2014
30 miles: From Southampton to Salisbury
I'm not sure why but i've always wanted to run to Salisbury. A lot of people get killed on the A36 just trying to cross it, so I had to find an alternative route. I thought maybe through Sherfield English or Wellow. Then I got this book about the Clarendon way. The Clarendon way is a 25 route that runs from Salisbury to Winchester from one Cathedral to the other. I thought about getting a train to Salisbury and doing this but I like to get out the door running pretty early.
I also have a book on the Testway. The Testway is a 50 mile route from Eling Wharf to Inkpen Beacon. However, I was not very confident that I would succeed as I tried to run some of the Testway before and it's not always well signposted. Last time I had only got as far as Squabb wood when I took a wrong turn and ended up in somebody's back garden. I was then in Shootash and ended up in East Wellow somehow! This time though, I did a bit more planning and wrote down some directions from the internet.
So I get up early, eat my crunchy nut cornflakes and pack my trail backpack. This included: A map, vaseline, socks, 2x t-shirts, shorts, a flapjack, 2x cereal bars, Lucozade sport and water, Mobile phone, wallet with money in, keys and some toilet paper. My phone and compact camera went in a bumbag/fannypack along with some of my written instructions.
A cup of coffee later and i am out the door running. The sun is shining brightly but it's chilly and my hands are cold. Should have worn gloves maybe? Nah, it'll soon warm up after a mile or so I think.
I run to Lee but decide on the shortest route possible, so I ran on the main road to Romsey and take the second exit on the roundabout. I was only able to do this as it was so early and therefore would be very little traffic. As soon as you get to Lee you leave the busier areas of Southampton and hit Lee lane. Lee lane can be quite boring as it's just long and flat for about 3 miles. It's a lovely day though and i'm enjoying the adventure and the not knowing what is to come.
I get to Romsey (pronounced Rum-sey) and tell myself that when I get to Sadlers mill I will take out my phone and wallet from my bumbag cos it's too heavy and needs to go into the backpack. I turn left after the so-called "mile long wall" and then i'm at the River Test and onto Sadlers Mill. This is a lovely place with a fast flowing stream and some nice wildlife. Not far from hear is Romsey Abbey which is worth a visit if you haven't already seen it.
I take off my backpack, take some pics and drink some water. 6 miles done already!
The first time I tried to find Squabb wood I got lost and just walked around in circles. In fact, it took me ages to find the path to the left behind the houses. Typical of the Testway, not signposted. On the way to Squabb wood there is a big field to walk across. This happened to be water-logged, which I wasn't expecting. Just over 6 miles in, finally on the Testway and I have wet feet already.
I get to Squabb wood and there is so much mud. As I am tip-toeing around the bog I check out all the wildlife. Great tits, Blue tits, Woodpeckers etc.. My white trainers which were wet are now also muddy. I still continue slowly. I am trying my best to choose the best paths with less mud when this (proper) runner comes along and just runs through all the mud at a good pace and just shouts a good morning at which I reply accordingly. What a hero. I felt like a right girl now..lol. So, I manned up a bit and trudged through the mud. Would have lost trainer if my laces weren't tied so tightly.
All is well as I take a right turning instead of the left turning I took last time and came to a field with pigs everywhere. I also get startled when a deer gets startled. We startle each other but she jumps high into the woodland as I just stand there watching. Straight on or Right? I ponder on this and get my instructions out. Finally I see a testway sign but wasn't easy to spot. I head straight on past the pigs and come out on the Old Salisbury road.
There are two more fields when you cross the road. Not much to see in these. On the second field you have to turn right and onto a track that leads to a farm. This is where I saw two more deer in a field but they had already seen me, so the pic I got wasn't too good. I tried to run after the deer but of course they were too fast for me. It was nice to be running again as this was the first dry, even ground since leaving the Mill.
I came out to a cottage and a road. It was another case of just crossing the road and following a path behind some houses. The path was narrow and my legs weren't enjoying the warmth of the stinging nettles too much. Ouch! I got a good one right on the calf muscle. I rubbed a Dock leaf on it even though I know for a fact that they don't work. It was something to do anyway and made me feel like Bear Grylls or something. Using my survival skills in the wilderness..lol Then there was a beautiful lake to the left and a scenic path with bluebells covering the whole area on both sides. It was amazing to see under the trees. The pictures do not show its true beauty. You really need to go there.
I then come to another road where I turn right and run for about a mile. This is Awbridge (pronounced A-Bridge) What a great place and I didn't even go to the main part of it. I just continued on to Kimbridge which I never really got to see either as I turned left before the railway track and back into the woods. On my way to Mottisfont now and I get to a footbridge which has the river Dun flowing under it. I meet my second person of the day and have covered 11 miles roughly? You hardly see anyone on the Testway, it really baffles me!
I chat to the dogwalker who is local to the area. We spot a Buzzard and watch it hover and circle around in the sky. He tells me the type of Buzzard it is but I can't remember. I keep thinking "Light-headed Buzzard" but that would just be a drunk one wouldn't it? I tell him i'm running to Salisbury and that I want to get from the Testway to the Clarendon way. I haven't really worked out a route for this. I just knew that I wanted to head for Broughton. I get my map out and he explains in detail to turn left at Mottisfont church and not right and then to Broughton that way. He confuses me a bit with his over elaborations but I nod and take in the basics that I think I need to know.
I come out at the Church and take a look around. I eat a cereal bar and take on more fluids. There are a few rabbits in the grounds of the church and some more birds. Turning right would have taken me to Mottisfont Abbey and I know it's lovely but I don't want to end up on the Stockbridge road. I take the left as suggested and I get to the testway path again but instead of turning right this time, I go straight on like the man suggested. I was now able to run at a decent pace for the next two or three miles. It was just a country road and so isolated and quiet with great views of fields afar. I couldn't even see the Stockbridge road even though I was probably running parallel to it.
I get to Houghton (pronouced Hoe-ton and not How-ton). I look lost and smile at some dog walkers as I run by. I find an entrance to the Clarendon way. I stop and think though. I think to myself that this is probably the wrong way for Salisbury and will probably take me to Winchester. Luckily I get the map back out before deciding to not to run down there as it's the wrong way. There should be another way on the otherside of the road and i've already passed it somehow.
I run back but can only find a dead end road with something about an estate on it. I ask a local old lady. She says it's the right way but doesn't seem too sure and her dialect wasn't very decipherable. I ran up there anyway where I got talking a to a man and a lady who were coming from the opposite direction. I tell them about my journey and they tell me I have 14 miles to go to Salisbury. I thought it would be further than that to be honest. I thought it would be about 30-35 miles when I got there. I had already done just over 14 miles. They said they walked the Clarendon way regularly but had never done the whole 28 miles as they said. They congratulated me on my efforts so far and the guy made a joke about me running the 14 miles. I said goodbye and started running and he shouts "Should only take you an hour". We all laugh and I continue along the bumpy gravel track.
I walk up the hill and can feel the sun beating down upon me. Better drink more water and eat some flapjack. I'm not hungry though and only manage two small bites of the flapjack. I know I must eat though and will try again within the next few miles to eat some more.
I walk down some steps and cross a road from one field to another. I had been on the Clarendon way for about three miles and this was my first time on here. I thought to myself that it's really not that interesting in comparison with the testway. What it lacks in mud though, it makes up for in hills! It just didn't seem as picturesque as the testway. Just lots of fields with obvious paths. There were more people on the Clarendon way but maybe this is because it's more accessible and person friendly. Maybe it will get better though.
I made it to Broughton (pronounced Brow-ton) I walked up a very big hill and chatted to an old lady who said there was a bigger hill nearby if I fancied walking up that one. She had a great sense of humour for an Octogenarian. Once at the top of the hill I took in the views and started running again. As I found my rhythm, I started chanting to myself "Those octogenarians have a great sense of humour, those octogenarians have a great sense of humour...". Don't ask me why, cos I don't know..lol I'm not mad, honest!
I get to Buckholt farm and then can't make up my mind if I go Left or straight on. Straight on didn't look right to me as it was just a big downhill road. I got the map out and it looked like a straight line to me. Straight on it was. I let a tractor pass me and zoomed down the hill. Nice to open up the stride and stretch the legs a bit. I passed two walkers and said hello and then another uphill section of course. The stretches of road were so rare that it was so nice to run when you got on one of them. Still, I was loving this adventure and was having the best time of my life.
Next up was Winterslow. There was Middle Winterslow and West Winterslow. I had actually found a shop in Winterslow at mile 22. I was hungry but didn't fancy any sweet stuff. It was then I found the ultimate running fuel... A giant porkpie. I devoured it quickly and drank a ribenna. I was feeling refreshed after that and ran on happily.
The Lambs were adorable. Most were a bit weary of me but some didn't mind at all. I had to walk across this field as I didn't want to scare them all off. Just after this I had to run behind a skatepark, through a muddy cutway and then through to some more fields of yellow stuff. This is where I got properly lost and choose the wrong pathway towards Pitton. Instead I ended up on a main road but there was a sign for Pitton. This gave me another excuse to run some more comfortable road miles into Pitton. I got some weird looks from the locals as they had probably never seen anyone running down this middle-of-nowhere road before.
I made it to Pitton safely anyway and got chatting to a rambler. He was a Hypnotherapist who had been to see his daughter near Clarendon but he lived in Romsey. We exchanged quite a few stories about our adventures from the past and we even talked about ultra-runners. I thanked him for the much needed break, he directed me the right way and we shook hands and said goodbye. What a really nice guy he was.
I entered Clarendon woods and there were a few crossroads but the Clarendon way was well signposted here. It was straight on all the way and then I got to the Llamas that the Hypnotherapist was telling me about. Sounds a bit like Alice in Wonderland here doesn't it?
Anyway, here I was at Clarendon palace, in Clarendon woods. This place has a lot of history and was built by the Saxons. Henry II has also been hanging out there etc.. I have read a lot about the history of the Testway and Clarendon way and it fascinates me. However, despite all the history the Clarendon way has, there really isn't all that much to see. I was having a great journey regardless. What was I expecting? A bloody theme park? It was nice to see the Llamas looking very relaxed without a care in the world. Some of them were rolling around on their backs, whilst others grazed in the shade under a tree.
Right, I must be close to Salisbury now right? But I still can't see any sign of the cathedral. Salisbury cathedral is massive, if you didn't know. I kept on going and finally there was a viewing point when I came out of the woods and down a dirt track. I could see it. I was confident that I would make it easily now. I was feeling stronger and full of self belief. Not that I had much doubt but it's nice to be reassured.
I ran down the track and onto a field with the Cathedral still in sight. 27 miles done. I'm nearly there... and then I get a beep from my Garmin watch. Low Battery. Right, I want to achieve one of two things if I can but both would be better. I want to either make it to Salisbury with the watch still running or I want to record 30 miles before the battery dies on me. This actually made me speed up but I was still happy to take pictures on my compact camera.
I head onto the main road, turn right after some indecision and run through Millford. There are now lots of people around and it feels weird as i've been surrounded by peaceful countryside for the majority of 7 hours. It's busy here and getting busier as I head into Salisbury town centre. Kind of reminded me of the 50k race I did on the Salisbury 5-4-3-2-1. You've run 30 miles and then you have to try and dodge all the shoppers which is tough as your concentration levels are so bad at this point. I found it easier to run down the middle of the road and dodge the traffic instead. I'm not even sure if i'm on the Clarendon way anymore. I'm just heading for the Cathedral now. The city is built up though so the cathedral is not visible from here. There will be signposts though, there has to be. I see a sign, run through an archway and I am almost in the cathedral grounds. 29.5 miles. I've made it! I run past the cathedral though as I want to finish at 30 miles. I turn left, hit the 30 mile mark and stop my watch. I get my breath, look up and see a signpost for the "Avon Valley Path". Ha. Maybe next time I think to myself.
I get changed and look around the Cathedral. My running shorts are wet from sitting on the grass though so I need the toilets to change. There's only 2 cubicles and both are full. I can't be bothered to wait though. There's no-one else around and it's only gonna take me 2 seconds to take off my running shorts and put on my other shorts. But of course as soon as I take my running shorts off, the door flies open and then walks in a little boy with his dad and his mum stood outside who also got an eyeful. It was all there to see! I felt so embarrassed and got those shorts on so quickly but the damage had been done..lol. They looked embarrassed too and I walked out of there and headed for the pub for a much deserved Chicken burger and a pint, followed by a train home. Lovely day out and cheap too. I still want to do the whole of the testway this summer. Let me know if you're interested :)